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The Details B lanche Payne in the History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century (1965) writes: When the back fullness was formed into box pleats at the neckline, falling freely from there to the floor, the gown is referred to as a robe la franaise . (413) Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta & Phyllis Tortora in the Dictionary of Fashion (2003) defines the robe la franaise as a: Dress, fashionable in 18th c., made with a bodice that fits closely in the front and loosely at the back